TV Stand Size for a Wall‑Mounted TV: Exact Width, Height, and Depth Rules

A wall-mounted TV doesn’t make the cabinet “not matter.” Get the size wrong and the whole wall feels off-top-heavy, cluttered, or cramped. Nail it, and the room looks balanced and calm, with cables hidden and gear breathing. Here’s a clear, numbers-first answer with a size chart, simple formulas, and no guesswork.

TL;DR

• Width rule: Make the stand at least as wide as your screen. Ideal is screen width + 20-40 cm (8-16 in) total.
• Height rule: Leave 10-15 cm (4-6 in) between the top of the stand and the bottom of the TV. Typical stand height: 50-65 cm (20-26 in).
• Depth rule: 35-45 cm (14-18 in) works for most. If you run an AV receiver, you’ll want 40+ cm internal shelf depth.
• Quick formula: Stand width ≈ TV diagonal × 0.8716 + 20-40 cm (for 16:9 screens).
• Clearances: 5-10 cm ventilation above/behind hot gear; 80-90 cm walkway clearance in front if it’s a main path.

The quick answer and sizing rules (with real numbers)

If your TV is on the wall, the stand’s job is visual balance, storage, ventilation, and cable hiding. The TV still sets the footprint. The simplest way to get TV stand size right is to use your actual screen width, not just the diagonal.

Screen width math (16:9 TVs): width = diagonal × 0.8716. Example: a 65" screen is roughly 65 × 0.8716 = 56.7" wide (144 cm). You can multiply inches by 2.54 to get cm.

Width rules that work:

• Minimum: Stand width ≥ screen width. This prevents the TV from visually “overhanging.”
• Ideal: Screen width + 20-40 cm (8-16 in). That gives you 10-20 cm margin each side and room for speakers/decor without clutter.
• Design ratio shortcut: Console width ≈ 1.0× to 1.15× the screen width is the sweet spot. Up to 1.25× still looks intentional in big rooms.

Height rules that keep the wall tidy:

• Keep 10-15 cm (4-6 in) gap between the top of the stand and the bottom of the TV. That space fits a soundbar and avoids the “crowded” look.
• Typical stand height is 50-65 cm (20-26 in). If your TV is mounted with the screen center ~100-110 cm off the floor (what THX and SMPTE viewing guidelines support for most sofa heights), that stand height tends to land the gap perfectly.
• If you already mounted the TV, adjust the stand height so that gap and sightlines feel right from your favorite seat.

Depth that won’t bite you later:

• Most media consoles are 35-45 cm deep. That’s fine for set-top boxes and consoles.
• Running an AV receiver? You’ll want at least 40 cm internal shelf depth (many receivers are 38-41 cm deep plus cables).
• Keep 5-10 cm ventilation above and behind hot gear (AVR, gaming consoles). Overheating is the fastest way to kill electronics.

Cable hiding and power:

• Plan for the stand to cover the outlet and any wall plates. In many homes, outlets sit 10-30 cm off the floor-your stand height and back panel should hide them.
• Align cable pass-throughs with the mount. In New Zealand, wall stud spacing is commonly 600 mm (24"). Knowing that helps you center a console that hides the cable drop neatly.

Fast example: 65" TV

• Screen width ≈ 144 cm. Minimum stand width = 144 cm; ideal = 164-184 cm.
• Stand height = 50-65 cm. Leave a 10-15 cm gap to the bottom of the TV.
• Depth = 35-45 cm (or 45+ cm internal if you have an AVR).

Measure your space and gear (so you buy once)

The numbers above are your starting grid. Now match them to your room, your tech, and how you watch.

1. Confirm your screen width. Don’t guess. For 16:9 TVs: width = diagonal × 0.8716. Or check the manufacturer’s spec sheet-most list width in mm.

2. Map your wall. Find the TV’s centerline and the mount height. Put painter’s tape roughly where the bottom of the TV sits. Mark the outlet and any wall plates. Your stand should hide that cluster.

3. Measure your walkway. If the stand sits on a path, keep 80-90 cm clear in front so people aren’t shuffling past knees.

4. Inventory your gear. Soundbar? Center speaker? Game consoles? AV receiver? Streaming box? Measure each (width × depth × height). Add 5-10 cm breathing room for the hot ones.

5. Decide on speakers. If you run left-center-right speakers, factor their width into the console or plan open shelves. If it’s just a soundbar, ensure the stand top has the depth to support it without hanging off the edge (most soundbars are 9-12 cm deep).

6. Think doors and remotes. If you prefer a clean, closed look, choose IR-friendly doors (acrylic mesh, IR pass-through) or plan for remote hubs. Glass looks tidy but shows dust and reflections.

7. Ventilation plan. If you keep an AVR in a cabinet, choose one with vented backs or removable panels. I allow a hand’s width over the receiver and a couple of fingers behind it. It seems simple, but it prevents firmware updates from becoming fan-noise meltdowns.

8. Cable management. Look for grommets that line up with your wall drop. I like a console with a central rear cutout behind the TV mount area; it makes hiding power bricks easy and avoids the octopus look.

Local reality check: I’m in Wellington, and wind plus earthquakes are a thing. I anchor tall consoles to the wall with simple L-brackets and keep the heaviest gear on the bottom shelf. Jasper (my cat) treats any dangling HDMI like a toy, so everything routes behind covers. If you’ve got kids or pets, think about soft-close doors and cable channels you can’t fish a paw into.

Height harmony if you haven’t mounted the TV yet:

• Seat yourself where you’ll actually watch. Eye level when seated often lands near the top third of the screen. THX and SMPTE viewing guidance puts the screen center around 100-110 cm from the floor for typical sofa heights. Adjust to your body and couch.
• With the stand at ~50-65 cm tall, that usually gives you a nice 10-15 cm gap between stand top and TV bottom.
• If your couch sits low or you recline, drop the TV a bit. If you sit upright at a dining table, raise it.

TV size chart, examples, and a cheat sheet you can print

Use this table to jump straight to a practical console width. Numbers are for 16:9 TVs.

If you prefer inches for the ideal width, add 8-16 inches to the screen width. Example: 55" screen width is ~47.9"; ideal stand width is ~56-64".

Quick examples and what I’d pick:

• Small lounge with a 50" TV and a soundbar: Screen width ~111 cm. I’d go for a 140-150 cm console, 50-55 cm tall, 35-40 cm deep.
• Open-plan room with a 65" TV, game consoles, and an AVR: Screen width ~144 cm. I’d choose a 180 cm console, 55-60 cm tall, at least 45 cm deep with 40+ cm internal shelf depth.
• Big wall, 75" TV, no AVR, just streaming and a soundbar: Screen width ~166 cm. A 200 cm console looks right, 55-65 cm tall, 40-45 cm deep.
• Apartment nook with a 43" TV: Screen width ~95 cm. A 120-130 cm console, 50-55 cm tall, 35-40 cm deep keeps it balanced without swallowing the room.

Cheat-sheet rules to print:

• Stand width = max(screen width, screen width + 20-40 cm if you have the space).
• Leave 10-15 cm between stand top and TV bottom. Shift mount height or pick a different stand height to keep that gap.
• Depth 35-45 cm. If you own an AV receiver: ensure 40+ cm internal shelf depth and rear cutouts for cables.
• Ventilation: 5-10 cm above/behind hot gear. Don’t cram it.
• Walkway: 80-90 cm clear in front for main paths.
• Child/pet safety: anchor tall consoles; avoid low, open shelves that invite climbing.

Pitfalls, FAQs, and your next steps

Common mistakes I see (and how to dodge them):

• Choosing a stand narrower than the screen. The TV ends up looking like it’s wearing a crop top. Go at least as wide as the screen.
• Forgetting the soundbar. Then the bar either blocks the TV’s IR sensor or floats awkwardly. Leave the 10-15 cm gap.
• No ventilation plan. AVRs and consoles cook in closed boxes. Add vented backs or leave doors slightly ajar during long sessions.
• Buying on exterior depth only. Internal shelf depth is what matters for big gear. Check it.
• Ignoring outlets. Nothing kills a clean look faster than a power strip peeking out the side. Make sure the console hides the power and cable plate.
• Skipping wire control. Use grommets, Velcro ties, and adhesive cable channels. Cheap, huge impact.

Mini‑FAQ

• Can my stand be wider than the TV by a lot? Yes. Up to about 1.25× the screen width still looks intentional, especially in large rooms. Beyond that, the TV can start to look small.

• Is it okay if the stand is a bit narrower than the TV? Technically, yes-your TV is on the wall. Visually, it usually looks top-heavy. I only do it if the wall niche forces it.

• What if I have a center speaker? Size the middle bay for its width and height, and keep the front edge flush with the stand’s front for clear sound. Don’t tuck it behind a solid door.

• How high should the TV be? Aim for the screen center around 100-110 cm from the floor for sofa viewing, following THX/SMPTE guidance. Adjust for your seat height and posture.

• Corner setups-different rules? Keep the same width rule relative to the screen. Corner units save space but check depth at the center; you often get less internal depth at the edges.

• Floating console or floor-standing? Floating looks lighter and makes cleaning easy. Just make sure you hit studs (common spacing 600 mm/24") and check weight ratings for your gear.

Next steps by scenario

• Renters (no wall chasing): Pick a stand with a full back and center cutouts. Use surface-mount cable channels from the TV down to the stand, painted to the wall color. It looks tidy and won’t cost your bond.

• Gamers: Prioritize ventilation and controller storage. Add a USB hub inside the cabinet and route one cable to a hidden wireless charger pad on top.

• Audiophiles: Choose a stand with 40-50 cm depth and adjustable shelves. Decouple speakers with small rubber feet and leave the back open behind the AVR.

• Small apartments: Go for a narrow-depth console (35-38 cm) but keep the width rule. Consider sliding doors so nothing swings into the room.

• Kids/pets: Anchor the stand; use soft-close hinges; pick cable channels with clip-on covers. Hide the power board inside with a vented box.

Quick buy checklist

• TV screen width measured (or looked up).
• Stand width chosen: screen width + 20-40 cm if space allows.
• Stand height chosen so there’s a 10-15 cm gap under the TV.
• Depth confirmed from internal shelf specs, not just exterior.
• Ventilation planned: 5-10 cm above/behind hot devices.
• Cable path planned: outlet and wall plates hidden by the stand.
• Doors vs open shelves decided (IR, airflow, look).
• Anchoring hardware added to cart if the stand is tall or heavy.

If you stick to the width rule (at least screen width, ideally +20-40 cm), keep that 10-15 cm breathing gap below the TV, and make sure your depth and ventilation match your gear, you’ll get a setup that looks intentional and works hard. That’s the difference between “a TV on a wall” and a living room that feels finished.